Textures and Leading Lines

I took these in Silver Falls State Park yesterday, the one on the road is a little blurry because it was taken in the car. I still like how it turned out though 

Film Is Certainly NOT Dead.

Do you have a 35mm Film Camera?

Do you want to find a way to Use it in this Growing Digital Era?

-Here Is a Fun Way To Take Advantage of That Old Camera-

By Robert Chapman

Today Turned into a somewhat boring day and I decided to try a photography process known to some as "Digitizing Film".  Sure, there are many ways (eg. Using a CD from a professional developer, scanning prints or scanning the negatives) to do this; but one creative way involves a DSLR camera, 35mm (or any previous kind) film, a Tripod (Optional), a bright display and patience.  First off, I would like to point out, having a Live view camera (Canon) helps a great deal with composing the shot as well as monitoring the photos whilst it being connected to a computer.  

Step 1:  Find a bright light source (I used my iMac on full brightness and opened "TextEdit" App)  I         have heard that using a light board is the easiest way but I do not have access to this.  Also bright lamps with glass holding the film in between has proven to work as well for me.  

Step 2:  Connect A DSLR Camera (preferably) to a computer and set up the Utility for the camera (EOS Utility on a Canon) to use the Live Mode feature (Under Camera Settings/ Remote Shooting). 

Step 3 (Optional):  Mount the camera onto a tripod (this only helps for framing, as doing all of these things at once can be very challenging.) 

Step 4:  If you are using a computer screen, you may want to put up a piece of drawing paper (Tracing paper) because the camera will end up focusing on the pixels in the screen as well.  This will wash out the pixels and the light  source will appear more soft.  (Ignore this step if you are using a lightboard or a bright lamp

Step 5:  Choose your filmstrip and frame up one of the slides or frames in the strip.  Make sure the strip is as straight as possible or else you may loose the original framing of the picture later in editing.  Once it is lined up, use the Camera Utility to take a picture from the computer.

Step 6:  Repeat for how ever many pictures you want in your computer.

Step 7:  Bring all of the photos into Photoshop (I used CS5.1)  Earlier and newer versions work in the same way for this. (Photo Below)

Step 8:  Crop the frame of the photo you want inside the rest of the filmstrip (Photos Below)

Step 9:  In the menu bar go to Image > Adjustments > Invert (Photos Below)

Step 10:  After the image has been inverted, go to Image > Adjustments > Levels... > Auto (In the side bar under "Ok" when the window pops up.  After clicking "Auto" click "Ok" and your photo will have auto-corrected colors etc. to how the print-out is.  (Photos Below) 

This is how the final product will look (Unless further edited).

NOTE:  These images may look different when they are in front of different lights, in front of different types of paper or how the photos were developed.  

In these i used a Tracing paper sheet in front of the screen and it gave the images a watercolor feel, or sketched feel.

Even before processing, The image on the left without anything between the screen and filmstrip has invaded the photo itself through pixels (Later degrading the quality even more).  The paper in between the screen and film fades the pixels and gives the final piece a softer look. 

-Here Are Some Other Works-

Even Though a Scanner May Bring More Quality, This is A Fun Way to Mess with Your Pictures.  

Dear Blogger,

Please make a "follow" button for each profile as default.

Sincerely,

A fellow blogger who had gone through much trouble to add people to his following list

Mt. Hood Photo

Directional Light!

This was captured on Mount Hood (A Cabin On The west Side of the mountain) I am very pleased with how it turned out with the rays of light casting all of the interesting shadows on different objects.  This was not taken with my Canon however, it was taken with a Sony Point and shoot camera on the P mode, most everything on its automatic setting (Scene, ISO etc. etc.) With a -0.7 EV setting.

Been Keeping Busy...

Photography Progress: July 11, 2012

I took this picture for the backlight segment and I like how it turned out, shot with my Canon Rebel T3 (On The "M" mode (Manual)) under manual focus, 60 second shutter (held it for a minute on my shutter release remote) and a low aperture of 4.0 to shed in more light.  (If you look closely you can see the stars through the clouds) No flash at 24mm under pattern metering at 800 ISO.  The image before editing/ processing came out very bright and overexposed, tweaked contrast, saturation, and exposure (along with highlights, some de-noising, and added definition)

Similar Situation as before, except the shutter was held for about 3mins and 40secs.  This created the stars to look like they are moving as we stay stationary.  The tree came out clearer because it had been easier to focus upon and 200 ISO was used instead of a higher one.  Slightly higher aperture to compensate for being over exposed at first.  Definition added to see stars more clearly.



<Both Pictures above>         (Tripod used, along with the Canon EFS 18-55mm Lens)

Same as the Pictures before once again, except the aperture was boosted up (f20) to actually shed in less light from the more extreme light coming from the fireworks



So Far I have taken a lot of pictures and I am enjoying our photo projects.  Still a lot of work ahead of all of us though.  Hope everyone is having an awesome summer!



-Robert